Learn about rock climbing and falling

Learn about rock climbing and falling

　  Lead climber

　　If you keep climbing, there will definitely be a time to fall; in fact, if you don’t fall, it means you may not have tried your limit. There are basically two types of decline:

　　1. You know what to happen, even in a very short time

　　2. You don't know what will happen, such as breaking the hand or falling suddenly for no obvious reason

　　The first way is to give you some time to prepare for falling, and sometimes push away from the stone climbing wall to notify your protector to tighten the rope. In this way, you can adjust your direction to make your hands empty, push your feet to the stone climbing wall to accept the momentum when the rope is tightened.

　　The sudden drop is more dangerous, because when you realize that your body has fallen (that is, the surprised part), and it is not too late to react. When you fall, you will sway and hit something that will not move, or the sudden impulse may pull you to the stone climbing wall. Here are the things that the leader should pay attention to when falling:

　　1. Always keep the main rope in the best condition and trust your protector

　　2. Keep falling down to prevent your head from falling down

　　3. Pay attention to the extension of the main rope to avoid long-distance decline

　　4. Avoid protruding stone corners

　　5. Pay attention to the pendulum effect when climbing horizontally（Pendulum＞

　　6. Use your hands and feet to protect your body when falling to avoid hitting the wall. Hold the rope with your hands when necessary to maintain balance

　7. Use your feet to exert a little force when falling and make your body leave the wall. Protect your body when it touches the wall again to prevent your body from hitting the wall.

　8. Be careful not to hurt your hands and feet

　　9. An expected decline will let you know what to do

　　Protector

　　1. You must pay attention to your own safety first in order to play the purpose of protection.

　　2. Watch the climber's every move

　　3. The protective method must be correct, and the climber must stop immediately when the decline is

　　4. The brake hand must not leave the climbing rope; avoid burning hands

　　5. Place the brake hand on the back of the thigh; even add a guide hand to tightly grasp the brake rope

　　6. The climber is more heavy than the guardian, and the protector uses his foot to support the wall to avoid damage

　　Impact force

　　When the climber falls, the energy will be absorbed by the ensured system and especially by the rope. If the rope can effectively absorb energy, the impact force the climber will bear will be greatly reduced. When the climber falls to stop, the continuous and unchanging force is called the "impact force". Its value depends on the "fall rate/fall rate", the weight of the climber and the ability of the rope to absorb energy when it falls.

　　　Falling rate

　　The fall rate determines the severity of the decline: the fall rate is the ratio calculated by the length of the released rope from the lower drop distance, and the value is between 0 and 2. The greater the fall rate, the greater the severity of the decline. Therefore, the severity of the decline does not lie in the distance of the decline, because the release When the rope is long, it can extend more to withstand the impact force of the decline.

　　Specification requirements

　　When using a single rope, the specification requires that when an 80 kg object falls at the first drop of 2, the impact force generated by an 80 kg object cannot be greater than 1,200 kg, and relative to a 55 kg object, the impact force generated cannot be greater than 800 kg.

　　Impact force

　　It is a force generated and transmitted to the climber due to the decline, and at the same time it will be transmitted along the rope to the fixed point, fast buckle and protector. The protection ability of the rope is to absorb the energy of the decline to reduce the impact force, so it is very important to choose the right rope. The quality of a rope depends entirely on the impact force it produces when it falls and after multiple declines Can it continue to maintain its characteristics?

　　Maximum impact force

　　　Based on the specifications of the International Mountain Climbing Alliance (UIAA), the impact force generated when the first drop with a fall rate equal to 2 is the maximum impact force, which also indicates the basic characteristics of a rope.

　　The process of impact force change

　　After continuous decline, the power performance of the rope will continue to decrease, and the impact force generated will increase at the same time. For example, when the impact force generated by a new rope during the first drop is close to the upper limit, its lifespan will not be too long.

　　The responsibility and attitude of the protector

　　Although there is a very safe brake, the safety level is only 50% of the hundred parts, and the other 50% of the protector is on the protector. Because there is no protector to make the rope The climber will still fall to the end; another situation is that the protector cannot brake the climbing rope in time. When it is time to brake, the rope is driven and accelerated by the downward force of the fallen person. If the protector uses his hand to catch the rope, his hands will be rubbed and burned, and pain will occur due to the burn. Of course, he will let go because of the pain. Due to this series of relationships, the life of the fallen person has cooled down by 90%. Therefore, when the protector is taking protection, he must wake up his spirit and pay attention to the movements of the climber at any time. If the climber encounters difficulties, he should pay more attention. The life of the climber is controlled by the protector. Therefore, as a protector, he must not relax at any time.

　　The following are the responsibilities and attitudes that the protector should have:

　　Climbing

　　1. Ensure that the climber and his own physical condition can cope with this activity

　　2. Ensure that there are no debris in the rock climbing line for protection

　　3. Check all stone climbing equipment

　　4. Correct and proficient in using protective equipment

　　5. Ensure that the climber's seat belt has been "reversely worn" and correctly tied the "reversely worn 8-character knot"

　　6. Make sure that your seat belt has been ‘reversely penetrated’ and the locked steel buckle that connects the protective gear has been ‘locked’

　　7. Ensure that the main rope is on the guide side; the brake rope is on the brake side

　　8. Ensure that the main rope and the brake rope are not entangled

　　Climbing

　　1. Keep the movement of the climber

　　2. Keep communication with each other

　　3. Do not chat with others or even hold a phone call

　　4. Protectors should always pay attention to whether the climbing rope is too loose. If it is too loose, it will lose its protective effect.

　　5. Hold the climbing rope tightly until the climber descends to the ground safely

　　6. The protective position should be appropriate and not be too far away from the wall.